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Thread: Barrel swap

  1. #1
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Barrel swap

    I picked up a Bear Creek arsenal 16" .223 Wylde barrel (1:9) and want to swap out my factory barrel on my S&W M&P Sport 15.
    The factory barrel is also 16" and 1:9 twist.
    Is there any particular things I need to be concerned with swapping barrels?
    Thanks in advance!

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  2. #2

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    Only thing I would be concerned with is a different length gas system but that looks carbine length. Should just be plug and play.

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  3. #3
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quigley View Post
    Only thing I would be concerned with is a different length gas system but that looks carbine length. Should just be plug and play.

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    Yup, gas length is exactly the same. Made sure of that. [emoji106]

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  4. #4

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    Properly torque the barrel nut upon reinstall, and ensure the gas block is aligned properly. If the rifle doesn't want to extract or eject the problem will most likely be a misaligned gas block. The bolt should be fine but a double check of headspace before firing is always smart.

    How do you plan on securing the upper during the process? Some vice blocks put the torque on the upper, others grab the barrel extension locking lugs.

  5. #5
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UH60_TrunkMonkey View Post
    Properly torque the barrel nut upon reinstall, and ensure the gas block is aligned properly. If the rifle doesn't want to extract or eject the problem will most likely be a misaligned gas block. The bolt should be fine but a double check of headspace before firing is always smart.

    How do you plan on securing the upper during the process? Some vice blocks put the torque on the upper, others grab the barrel extension locking lugs.
    I'll definitely check the headspace. I don't have a vice to work with. I clamped the upper to a table when I did the handguard install to torque the new barrel nut. Had no issues aligning the new low profile gas block. Gun ran just as it did before after installing the new handguard and gas block.

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  6. #6

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    Just make sure the barrel nut is properly torqued. Is the barrel nut a traditional milspec type with the teeth or gas tube slots, or is it smooth? Most proprietary barrel nuts comes with torque specs. I suggest following those numbers. If you are dealing with a milspec type or similar then all you can do is crank it down and get the tube lined up...

  7. #7
    Jonathan riddle's Avatar
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    Looks like you got it covered. Barrel nut torque is a range so you go a little more for alignment reasons.

  8. #8
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UH60_TrunkMonkey View Post
    Just make sure the barrel nut is properly torqued. Is the barrel nut a traditional milspec type with the teeth or gas tube slots, or is it smooth? Most proprietary barrel nuts comes with torque specs. I suggest following those numbers. If you are dealing with a milspec type or similar then all you can do is crank it down and get the tube lined up...
    The barrel nut is Diamondheads proprietary nut and I torqued it to spec when installed.

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  9. #9

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    Sounds like you are good to go then. Let us know how it shoots!

  10. #10
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UH60_TrunkMonkey View Post
    Sounds like you are good to go then. Let us know how it shoots!
    Will do! Thanks fellas! [emoji106]

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